Exploring the Presidio of San Francisco: Nature, History, and Adventure at the Edge of the City

The first time you visit the Presidio in San Francisco, you may have to remind yourself that you are still in San Francisco. One minute you are navigating city traffic, the next you are watching fog spill over eucalyptus trees with barely a high-rise in sight. That’s the magic of the Presidio. Tucked into the city’s northern tip, this former military post turned national park feels like a world apart—part wilderness, part history museum, part cultural hub. Explore hiking trails and a one-of-a-kind museum. Discover kid-friendly play areas and some of the best Golden Gate Bridge views.

If you’re visiting San Francisco and only know the city for its cable cars and sourdough bread, you’re missing out. The Presidio is where history, nature, and innovation come together. In this guide, I’ll share what makes the Presidio such a compelling place to explore—whether you’re on foot with a camera, traveling with curious kids, or simply in need of a moment of peace with a view.

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A Brief History of the Presidio

The Presidio’s roots go deep—long before the Spanish built a military outpost here in 1776, the land was home to the Ohlone people, who lived along the bay and relied on its rich resources. Learn more about the Ohlone in the museum in the Presidio’s Visitor Center or the Presidio Officers’ Club museum.

With the arrival of Spanish settlers, the site became El Presidio Real de San Francisco, part of Spain’s larger strategy to colonize the California coast. It passed into Mexican hands after 1821. Travelers to San Francisco before the Gold Rush would have found a very different place. Richard Henry Dana Jr., the author of Two Years Before the Mast, visited San Francisco (then known as Yerba Buena) in 1835. He tells us that between the Presidio and Mission Delores was only one house. Much of the Richmond, the Sunset, and Golden Gate Park was just sand dunes.

California and the Presidio were ceded to the United States in 1846 during the Mexican-American War. From there, the Presidio became a cornerstone of U.S. military operations on the West Coast. It served as a major base during the Spanish-American War, World War I, World War II, and the Cold War. Generations of service members lived, trained, and deployed from here. In fact, it remained an active military post until 1994—the same year it was transferred to the National Park Service.

That transition marked a turning point. Instead of being closed off to civilians, the Presidio was reborn as part of the larger Golden Gate National Recreation Area. The creation of the Presidio Trust in 1996 enabled the public-private management of a significant portion of the land. Today, it’s a rare model of a national park that combines historic preservation, ecological restoration, and vibrant community use.

The layers of history are still visible. You can stay in old officers’ quarters, climb on the foundations of artillery batteries, and walk the parade grounds.

Presidio Tunnel Tops: San Francisco’s Newest Park Landmark

When Tunnel Tops opened in 2022, it immediately became one of the most exciting public spaces in San Francisco—and for good reason. Spanning 14 acres and built atop the highway tunnels that were once a barrier between Crissy Field and the rest of the Presidio, this elevated parkland now reconnects the waterfront to the heart of the park. It’s not just a clever piece of urban design; it’s a destination in itself.

When I first heard about the Tunnel Tops from the San Francisco tourism board, frankly, I think they undersold it. Native grasses ripple across sloped lawns, and paths invite exploration at your own pace. You’ll find sculpted mounds that double as seating areas, picnic tables with million-dollar views of the Golden Gate Bridge, and wide open spaces where kids roll down hills while grownups sip coffee and take it all in. The Tunnel Tops have the vibe of a community hangout, a nature preserve, and a viewpoint all rolled into one.

What’s more, the parade grounds area nearby has become a community hangout. When we stayed at the Lodge in the Presidio, we asked about the big event in the Parade Grounds, which was filled with families. The event was that it was Saturday. Food from a dozen food trucks, family picnics, kites, and pickup soccer filled the space.

The Outpost: Nature-Inspired Play for Young Explorers

Down the hill from the Tunnel Tops, the Outpost is easily one of the most engaging play spaces in the city. Unlike traditional playgrounds, this one was designed with nature and creativity in mind. There are no plastic slides or swing sets here—instead, you’ll find log balance beams, climbing structures made from fallen tree trunks, water features, and a giant “oriole nest” structure that dares kids to scramble, dig, climb, and build. It’s two acres of immersive, unstructured fun that encourages kids to interact with the natural world around them. The Outpost has been so popular that, in 2025, the playground’s extent is being extended with new construction.

The Field Station: A Curiosity Lab for All Ages

Adjacent to The Outpost is the Field Station, an indoor learning lab packed with curiosity-sparking exhibits and hands-on tools. Think of it as a cross between a nature center and a base camp for discovery. Inside, kids can examine skulls and feathers, draw their own field notes, paint at a watercolor easel, or look through microscopes. It’s open Wednesday through Sunday and always free to visit.

One of the highlights at the Field Station is the opportunity to borrow activity backpacks, which transform the rest of the park into an adventure. The Presidio Explorer Backpack comes with binoculars, a compass, colored pencils, and nature guides.

Geocaching

At the Field House, there is also a GeoQuest kit that combines map-reading with geocaching, offering a kind of scavenger hunt throughout the park. If you’ve never tried it, think of geocaching as a high-tech treasure hunt—using GPS coordinates (and, in the Presidio’s case, often low-tech clues) to find hidden containers known as caches. These may include a logbook to sign, small trinkets to trade, or simply the satisfaction of discovering something others have walked right past. The Presidio has a dozen different geocaches. Each contains a small plastic container with a logbook you can sign and a code word.

The geocaching kit includes a map and a set of 12 cards, each with a location and a clue. For instance, the clue for the visitor center directs you to the part of the porch with the best view of the Golden Gate Bridge, and then provides one more hint on where to find the hidden box.

Outdoor Adventures and Hiking Trails

The Presidio is a paradise for walkers, hikers, and anyone who appreciates being outdoors without leaving the city limits. With over 24 miles of interconnected trails, the park invites you to slow down and discover it one step at a time. Some trails take you deep into eucalyptus and cypress groves, others bring you right to the edge of coastal cliffs overlooking the Pacific.

We began at El Polín Spring, one of the most historically and ecologically significant sites in the Presidio. Tucked in the Tennessee Hollow watershed, this freshwater spring is why the presidio was located where it is. It was first a gathering place for the Ohlone people and later a source of water for Spanish and Mexican settlers. Today, it’s part of an ecological restoration project that has revived native plant habitats, reintroduced wildlife. A gentle walking trail leads visitors past interpretive signs, wildflowers, and the spring itself, which now bubbles peacefully year-round. It’s a quiet corner filled with bird song, although you can still hear traffic from the Golden Gate in the distance.

View from Inspiration Point

From El Polin, you can take the Ecology Trail through forested hills to Inspiration Point, where you’ll find a panoramic view of Alcatraz, Angel Island, and the East Bay framed by layers of treetops. It’s a quick but rewarding .3 mile trail up the hill.

A popular hike is the Batteries to Bluffs Trail, located on the west ridge of the park. It’s a moderate hike with stunning payoffs—winding staircases, rugged coastline, and up-close views of the Golden Gate Bridge from below.

The Bay Area Ridge Trail is another highlight. This section of the regional trail system cuts across the spine of the Presidio and passes by art installations like Andy Goldsworthy’s Spire.

Crissy Field Beach

Beaches of the Presidio

One of the Presidio’s many delights is that it puts the Pacific Ocean—and the San Francisco Bay—right at your feet. The park offers a handful of distinct beaches, each with its own unique vibe and vantage point.

The most accessible and popular is Crissy Field East Beach, a broad, sandy stretch that’s perfect for families. It has calm waters, walking paths, and easy access to food, bathrooms, and grassy areas for picnicking or playing catch. The views of the Golden Gate Bridge here are iconic, especially in the soft morning light or the golden glow of late afternoon.

For the more adventurous, Marshall’s Beach is a hidden gem. It’s accessible only via a steep path off the Batteries to Bluffs Trail and requires a bit of a climb. But what you get in return is a quiet, wild stretch of coast with up-close views of the bridge and the Marin Headlands. It’s also a favorite for sunset photos—and yes, a portion of it is clothing optional.

view from Baker Beach

Baker Beach, just to the southwest of Marshall’s Beach, is larger and more dramatic, with stronger surf and a westward view that makes it a go-to for evening light. Just be prepared for chilly winds and limited parking on weekends.

Now you see it

Weather at the Presidio

Thanks to its location at the northern tip of the city, exposed to the Pacific Ocean and the mouth of the Golden Gate, the Presidio has its own microclimate. Fog is common, especially during summer mornings and evenings, and the temperature tends to run cooler and breezier than in downtown neighborhoods like the Mission or SoMa.

If you’re visiting in summer, expect marine layers to roll in like clockwork. June through August often brings overcast skies and wind in the afternoons, with highs averaging in the low to mid-60s Fahrenheit (around 16–18°C). The same view spot that has a view of the bridge at noon, might have none at 8 am or 6 pm. But don’t let that stop you—these cooler days are perfect for hiking, and the soft light makes for beautiful photos of the bridge disappearing into the mist.

Now you don’t

Fall is arguably the best time to visit the Presidio. September and October usually bring sunnier skies, less fog, and some of the warmest temperatures of the year, often in the 70s°F (21–24°C). Winter and spring can be wet, but even then, the park has a moody beauty, with emerald hills and quiet trails. Just bring a waterproof jacket and shoes with traction.

Walt Disney Family Museum

Museums, Art, and Cultural Sites

One of the most compelling stops is the Walt Disney Family Museum, located near the Main Post. This isn’t just a gallery of Mickey Mouse memorabilia—it’s a deeply personal look into Walt Disney’s life, vision, and creative process. Interactive exhibits, rare artwork, and multimedia displays guide you through the evolution of one of the most influential storytellers of the 20th century.

Not far from there is the Presidio Officers’ Club, one of San Francisco’s oldest buildings and now a small but well-curated museum. It offers rotating exhibits on the region’s layered history—from Indigenous life and Spanish colonization to military service and community evolution. Entry is free, and the interpretive materials are thoughtfully designed to be engaging for all ages.

Then there’s Fort Point, tucked beneath the Golden Gate Bridge. This brick fortress, dating back to the Civil War era, offers a fascinating glimpse into military engineering and coastal defense. Even if you’re not a history buff, the views from the top level alone make the visit worthwhile—standing there with the bridge soaring overhead and waves crashing below is unforgettable.

The Japanese American Experience tells the powerful, often-overlooked story of Japanese American soldiers who, despite facing racial prejudice and internment of their community, secretly trained in military intelligence during World War II and played a crucial role in securing a U.S. victory.

Art lovers should seek out the site-specific works of Andy Goldsworthy. His works in the Presidio include Spire, Wood Line, Tree Fall, and Earth Wall.

In 2026, the Courage Museum from Futures Without Violence will open. This museum has been delayed. One can only hope that it will open before there is a future without violence, or we might be waiting quite a long time.

Memorials

The Presidio isn’t just a place for recreation—it’s also a site of deep remembrance. Within its grounds are multiple memorials and cemeteries that honor the lives of those who served the United States, as well as civilians who played a significant role in the region’s layered history.

At the heart of this solemn landscape is the San Francisco National Cemetery, the first national cemetery on the West Coast, established in 1884. Set on a gentle hillside with sweeping views of the bay, it is the final resting place for over 30,000 military personnel, including veterans from the Civil War through the Gulf War. Among them are notable figures such as Major General Frederick Funston and Union spy Pauline Cushman. The rows of white headstones and the ceremonial flagpole at its center evoke a profound sense of respect and history.

WWII Memorial

Elsewhere in the Presidio, smaller yet meaningful memorials mark pivotal moments and people. The World War II Memorial, near the Golden Gate Bridge toll plaza, honors the service members who departed from San Francisco to fight in the Pacific theater. Nearby, a plaque commemorates the Buffalo Soldiers, African American cavalry regiments who once patrolled the Western frontier and helped protect early national parks.

Also present is the Pershing Square Memorial, named after General John J. Pershing, who served at the Presidio before commanding U.S. forces in World War I. The memorial is especially poignant—it honors Pershing’s wife and three daughters who tragically died in a fire on the Presidio grounds in 1915. Even the Pet Cemetery, tucked beneath an overpass behind Crissy Field, tells a more personal, tender story of military families who laid their beloved animals to rest.

dinner at Colibri Mexican Bistro

Food at the Presidio

In addition to the Food Trucks on the main parade grounds, which are available for lunch, the Presidio has a growing collection of restaurants.

At the heart of the Main Post, Dalida serves Eastern Mediterranean dishes in a former military barracks. Nearby, Il Parco offers Italian cuisine, featuring seasonal pizzas, pastas, and sandwiches, making it an ideal spot for families and casual lunchgoers.

For those seeking a view with their meal, Presidio Café, located at the golf course, pairs classic American fare with patio seating overlooking the greens. Coffee lovers will appreciate the Warming Hut Café near Crissy Field, while Colibri Mexican Bistro offers bold flavors and indoor or patio dining in the old Officer’s Club building.

The 12-lane bowling alley off the parade grounds also has a grill with bar food and a patio looking out at the parade grounds.

A new food court called “The Mess Hall” is set to open in the Fall of 2025 at 201 Halleck St, near the Tunnel Tops.

Businesses at the Presidio

Beyond the trails, views, and restaurants, the Presidio is also home to a surprising number of businesses that give this national park a pulse of daily life. You’ll find everything from wellness studios to media companies, all operating in repurposed military buildings. One of the most famous tenants is Lucasfilm, headquartered at the Letterman Digital Arts Center. The campus isn’t open to the public, but the Yoda fountain out front has become an informal pilgrimage site for Star Wars fans.

Visitors can also take advantage of several retail and service businesses. Sports Basement is a favorite among locals for renting bikes or stocking up on outdoor gear before hitting the trails. Cyclists can swing by Roaring Mouse Cycles for repairs or rentals. Those in need of a break can book a massage or facial at SenSpa, one of the city’s top wellness centers, or take a yoga class and scale the walls at Movement San Francisco, a full-service climbing gym.

These businesses are unusual in a National Park, but the nonprofit Presidio Trust is using this revenue to make this national park self-sustaining.

Getting to the Presidio

Located on the northern edge of San Francisco, the park is accessible by car, bike, foot, rideshare, and bus.

If you’re driving, the Presidio is well-connected via Highway 101 (Doyle Drive), which runs along its northern edge and leads directly to the Golden Gate Bridge. Entrances are available off Lombard Street, Arguello Boulevard, and Presidio Boulevard. There are several paid parking lots throughout the park—including near the Main Post, Crissy Field, Tunnel Tops, and trailheads—all of which accept credit cards and mobile payments through apps like PayByPhone.

Rideshare services such as Uber and Lyft are also excellent options for getting to and around the Presidio. Both services operate throughout the park, and drivers can drop you off directly at popular spots like the Tunnel Tops, Main Post, or Crissy Field. Please note that cell reception can be spotty in certain wooded areas, so it’s a good idea to set your pickup point near a well-known landmark with better visibility.

If you’re curious to try something new, Waymo, the autonomous vehicle service, also operates in San Francisco and includes the Presidio in its service area. After signing up and being accepted through the Waymo One app, you can hail a self-driving car to take you into or around the park in one of their electric Jaguar I-PACE vehicles—no human driver required. You can’t visit the Presidio these days without seeing a Waymo, as they are everywhere.

For those traveling without a car, public transit remains a reliable and budget-friendly option. The PresidiGo Shuttle is free and runs two routes. One runs throughout the park, and the other goes downtown to the Embarcadero BART station. Several Muni bus lines, including the 43, 28, and 29, also serve stops around the park’s perimeter and provide easy access to key entrances.

Cycling and walking are not only great ways to reach the Presidio but also perfect for exploring once you’re there. Inside the park, you’ll find a mix of bike-friendly roads and scenic paths (though some trails are pedestrian-only). But do be aware that very little of the Presidio is flat. The Presidio Visitor Center, situated near the Main Post, is a great starting point for any visit.

The “Mess Hall” at the Lodge

Lodging at the Presidio

For visitors seeking a serene retreat within San Francisco, the Presidio offers two distinctive lodging options that blend historic charm with modern comforts. The Lodge at the Presidio, situated on the Main Post, is a boutique hotel housed in a renovated 19th-century military barracks. As the city’s closest hotel to the Golden Gate Bridge, it provides guests with unobstructed views of the bridge, the bay, and the surrounding parklands. Amenities include spacious, pet-friendly rooms, complimentary continental breakfast, evening wine and cheese receptions, and cozy outdoor fire pits. Its proximity to attractions like the Presidio Tunnel Tops and Crissy Field makes it an ideal base for exploring the area.

Nearby in a quieter part of the park, the Inn at the Presidio offers an intimate experience in a Georgian Revival-style building that once served as housing for unmarried Army officers. The inn features 22 rooms, including 17 suites equipped with gas fireplaces and sleeper sofas, providing a cozy atmosphere reminiscent of a bed-and-breakfast. Guests can relax on the front porch with rocking chairs or enjoy the serene forest backdrop.

Both hotels are managed by the Presidio Trust and are committed to sustainability, holding LEED certifications. They offer a unique opportunity to stay within a national park while enjoying easy access to San Francisco’s vibrant neighborhoods. Whether you’re seeking panoramic views or a tranquil forest setting, lodging in the Presidio offers a distinctive and memorable experience.

View from Golden Gate Overlook

Final Thoughts

I have lived in the Bay Area since 1984 and had been to the Presidio, but it has changed and is constantly changing. If you haven’t been, you should go. If you haven’t been recently, you should go back. If you have been recently… well… then you know.