Things to do on a Central Coast of California Road Trip – Pinnacles, Parks, Pinot, and Paddling

California is, in my opinion, one of the best states in the United States for a road trip. It is the scenery, the wildlife, and, of course, the wine. One of the best of these road trips is California’s Highway 1 by Big Sur.

In 2010, I had the opportunity to explore the North Island of New Zealand in a converted minivan that had been converted into an RV. One of the companies, Jucy RV, which popularized the concept in New Zealand, has now arrived in my backyard in California. I had a chance to do a road trip to the California Central Coast, where I grew up, in one of their RVs. Let me introduce you to some of my favorite things to do on the Central Coast of California, including a road trip up California’s Highway 1.

Table of contents: (Hide)

• Central Coast California Map
• Pinnacles National Park
• Santa Lucia Highlands
  • Hahn Family Winery
• Paso Robles
  • Windward Vineyard
• San Luis Obispo
• Pismo Beach
• Morro Bay
• Cambria
• California’s Highway 1
  • San Simeon
  • Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery
  • Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park Andrew Molera State Park
  • Nepenthe Restaurant
  • Point Lobos State Park
• Monterey, Pacific Grove, and Carmel
  • Folktale Winery
• Home Away from Home – Jucy RV
• Conclusion

Central Coast California Map

Pinnacles National Park

The central coast of California has changed a lot since I grew up there (what, without all the dinosaurs). One of the cool changes is that my home county, Monterey County, now has a National Park, Pinnacles National Park. Pinnacles was a National Monument, but got an upgrade. If you’re not familiar with the park, it is a collapsed ancient volcano in one of California’s coastal ranges.

It’s a great place to hike, so that’s just what I did. I met JD from the Monterey tourism board for a hike from the west entrance of Pinnacles. I had never been to the west entrance of the park before. Its winding one-lane road is a great argument for why driving an RV no bigger than a minivan is a joy. This is not a road for a large RV.

We hiked the Balconies Cliffs – Balconies Cave Loop (2.4-mile loop). In Pinnacles, even in late spring, you need to bring bottled water on your hike as it can get warm, but you should also bring a flashlight. What I loved about Pinnacles as a kid and still love are the caves formed by giant boulders in narrow canyons. Some scrambling is necessary for spots that are more kid than fat-man-friendly.

JD’s view of the park differs from mine, as he sees many of these boulders as potential rock-climbing routes. Rock climbing is very popular in the park. JD’s favorite trail in the park is the High Peaks Trail, known for its stunning vistas. JD brought a picnic lunch from the Boardwalk Sub Shop in Monterey; the sandwich was so big that it was essentially two lunches.

The west entrance of the park is designated for day use only and provides a great respite from nearby Silicon Valley’s workaholic lifestyle. “No, honey, I had no idea you couldn’t get a cell phone signal here”.

For a bite to eat in nearby Soledad, the rangers at the west gate recommended La Fuente Mexican Restaurant or La Plaza bakery (see reviews).

Santa Lucia Highlands

I worked one week in a winery in nearby Gonzalez after high school, building wooden wine tanks. I swear, at the time, it was the only winery in the area. Things have changed. Now, Monterey County alone has 349 wineries and 57 tasting rooms.

The first subregion to break out and earn its own wine appellation was the Santa Lucia Highlands, a strip of land located to the west of the Salinas Valley, near Soledad.

Hahn Family Winery

My next stop was a tour and tasting at the Hahn Family Winery. In the year I was busy graduating from high school (1979), this converted horse ranch was bottling their first wine. The Hahn family has three vineyards (Hock, Smith, Doctor’s, and Lone Oak) in the area as well as three labels for their wines (Hahn, SLH for Santa Lucia Highlands, and Lucienne).

Like the other wineries in the area, viticulturists from the University of California, Davis, originally advised the Hahn family to grow Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. They later discovered that the region has a climate just like that of Burgundy, perfect for wines like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Hahn Family Winery weather station

We toured the Smith Vineyard, which is proudly certified as SIP (Sustainability in Practice). Striving to grow grapes sustainably has led to some interesting innovations. New high-tech weather stations pinpoint just how much water to use in different fields. They also have raptor boxes to attract owls and hawks, which help control rodents, and an unusual invention that plays the sound of a wounded deer to deter deer from eating the grapes.

Of course, all of this would be for naught if their wines weren’t good, but I found some excellent Pinot Noirs, a Chardonnay, and a Malbec that I thoroughly enjoyed.

Paso Robles

One of the reasons that I was interested in a Central Coast road trip is that I have heard so many great things about the things to do in Paso Robles, including the wine region, over the last few years. I knew Paso Robles as a place to stop and refuel on the way to Bakersfield.

For years, the only stop we would make in town was at the Black Oak restaurant. Fellow travel blogger Juliana Dever recently explained to me why she and her husband like Paso Robles so much. The city itself is a throwback. It has a Carnegie Library and a picturesque central square with a gazebo.

I spent the night in the Wine Country RV Resorts outside Paso Robles. The camping I have done has usually been in state parks or national parks. When there is power, water, and fast internet at your “campsite” and a heated pool, I don’t think you are camping.

There are more than 200 wineries around Paso Robles now, but I only had time to visit one. My timing was a bit off, as I missed the Pinot and Paella festival (the first Sunday in June) by a few weeks.

Juliana recommended lunch at the Red Scooter Deli. The sandwiches were great, but large. By this time, I have two half-eaten sandwiches with me, and I appreciate traveling with a refrigerator in the Jucy RV. For a bit fancier meals, Juliana recommended the following restaurants:

• Il Cortile (see reviews)
• Artisan (see reviews)
• Thomas Hill Organics (see reviews)
• Panolivo (see reviews)

Windward Vineyard

Windward Vineyard is a family-run vineyard that specializes in a single grape variety, Pinot Noir. They do make a Vin Gris (white wine made from red grapes), but most of their wines are the traditional Pinot Noir red. The winery is a family-owned winery, and Justin, the son of owners Marc Goldberg and Maggie D’Ambrosia, was my host. Justin and Wine Club Manager Heather say that “Paso Robles is like Napa 30 years ago,” with small, family-run vineyards being the norm. Certainly, the price of a tasting at $5 is a throwback, as Napa can charge $25 for a tasting.

The wines at Windward are a testament to the value of focusing on one thing and doing it exceptionally well. There is not a lot of flash to the winery as an experience. They make great wines.

If you want a hike to work off your tasting, Justin recommended nearby Madonna Mountain. Heather recommended the Avila Ridge trail, located near Sycamore Mineral Springs, which offers a view of the coast by Pismo Beach.

San Luis Obispo

The largest city in the area is San Luis Obispo, or SLO. I made a stop at the Mission in San Luis Obispo, which is one of the chain of missions in California from the Mexican border up to Sonoma, north of San Francisco. The missions were placed a day’s ride apart and were used by the Spanish as part of their efforts to colonize the area. The Mission in San Luis Obispo is situated right in the heart of downtown and is one of the most picturesque missions in the chain.

San Luis Obispo is a college town, the home to Cal Poly, and has been declared one of the best places to live in the United States. The downtown has a great college-town feel, with some interesting coffee shops and eateries. Parking can be a bit tricky, as all parking is metered. There are a few large parking garages located downtown, where parking is free for the first hour.

A couple of people recommended the new Zip Line (see reviews), which has opened up at the historic Santa Margarita Ranch in the area, but I can’t go on a zip line without my wife, as she would feel left out. I can go “camping” without her with no problem. The joke is that her idea of roughing it is slow room service.

Pismo Beach

Just south of San Luis Obispo is the beach town of Pismo Beach, which boasts a long, empty beach that was perfect for morning or evening walks when I visited. On the way into town, I stopped at the trailhead for Avila Ridge but whipped out and hiked down towards the point instead of up to the mountain. There is a clothing-optional beach at the point, but I was not dressed for it.

I stayed at the Pismo Beach Coast Village, which is right off the beach in a gated community. Again, this was a place with its own restaurant (closed Tuesdays, the night I was there, unfortunately), pool (tepid), arcade, hot showers, power, and good internet. For a blogger and knowledge worker on the road, don’t underestimate the value of “internet included”. For more affordable accommodations, a state park is located right next door, offering larger spaces but fewer amenities. I thought I saw a wi-fi sign, but it was really a sign for the campfire circle.

I started the next day with a long walk along the beach and back up through downtown Pismo. Not a bad way to start a “work” day.

Morro Bay

I turned back north after breakfast, having used up my supplies in the camper van. My next stop was back up the coast to the sleepy town of Morro Bay. Where Pismo is open to the ocean, Morro Bay is a protected bay punctuated by the large Morro Rock. It’s a perfect place for beginners to enjoy some sea kayaking in the protected waters. I rented a kayak from Kayak Horizons (see reviews).

Garrett helped me get my SLR camera in a dry bag and get in one of their one-person kayaks for what turned out to be a great paddle around the bay. I was able to get relatively close (as close as seemed appropriate) to frolicking otters, noisy sea lions, and a variety of seabirds.

If I had had more time, I would have paddled across to the sandbar where Morro Bay is and beached my kayak there for a walkabout. Instead, I paddled over to where the fishing boats were moored, just off the coast from the seafood restaurants and shops. My quick kayak outing was one of the trip’s highlights… one that didn’t involve a wine glass in my hand.

If you’re looking for lunch in Morro Bay, Garrett says the best burgers can be found at the unlikely Bottle Liquor and Deli. For seafood, try the Flying Dutchman (see reviews) or Ju Ju.

Cambria

I grabbed lunch in picturesque Cambria, which is just up Highway 1 from Morro Bay. There are a number of popular tourist restaurants in the area, but I found my way to the tiny Boni’s Tacos (see reviews) set up in a small industrial park. It only has two tables, but the food is good. I got my burrito to go, as I still had a fair amount of driving ahead of me.

California’s Highway 1

If you like to drive, then California Highway 1 is one of the best drives in the world, in my opinion. Winding and hilly but not particularly dangerous, it is a highway for a leisurely drive, not for making good time. Again, it is another good road not to drive something unwieldy. Driving from south to north puts you away from the cliffs, but it also means you will have to cross traffic to pull over to the scenic overlooks.

San Simeon

Just north of Cambria is San Simeon and Hearst’s Castle. William Randolph Hearst built his mansion on one of the hills overlooking the Pacific. He imported ceilings, choir stalls, and other fixtures from Europe for this study of opulence. The indoor swimming pool features gold leaf tiles, but it was mainly used by the staff, who referred to it as the “million-dollar fringe benefit,” as the guests preferred the gorgeous outdoor white marble pool. It’s definitely worth a stop, but be sure to get tickets ahead of time, as they tend to sell out quickly.

If you’re looking for a meal, I recommend Sebastian’s Cafe (see reviews), located across the highway from Heart’s Castle. It has better food for less money.

Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery

One great stop along the drive is the Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery. On two relatively small beaches, you can see and hear (and, yes, smell) thousands of elephant seals. I was there in May, and the young bull pups were practicing their sparring. So, all up and down the crowded beach, it looked like fights were breaking out as they paired up to push at each other. It was like being back on the Jersey Shore.

Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park / Andrew Molera State Park

There are a few different California state parks along the route, and two of my favorites are located near each other: Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park and Andrew Molera State Park. Pfeiffer is an inland park featuring hikes that lead up into the hills and a waterfall. Andrew Molera is on the ocean side, hiking down to a secluded beach or an ocean overlook.

As I had recently visited Andrew Molera, I opted for the hike up to Pfeiffer Falls on the Pfeiffer Falls & Valley View hike in Pfeiffer. This is not a large waterfall like in Yosemite, but it is a beautiful hike nonetheless. Your entry fee to one of the state parks will also be valid for other parks for 24 hours.

Both parks have camping. I stayed the night in the campground at Pfeiffer Big Sur. This was more like camping. No internet (barely any cellular along the whole of Highway One), token-operated showers, but good-sized sites set among the redwoods. There is also a Lodge in Pfeiffer with 61 guest rooms. Even on a weekday in May, the campground filled up, so reservations are suggested.

Nepenthe Restaurant

Just because you’re sleeping in a tent doesn’t mean you can’t have a great meal. Just south of Big Sur is the Nepenthe Restaurant (reviews), which opened in the 1940s. They have a large fire pit in the front and a terrace with stunning views of the coast in the back. You should stop for a drink at least, even if you don’t plan to have dinner (although limit yourself to one drink if you’re driving on Highway 1).

As an appetizer, I ordered the “Laura Chenel Goat Cheese and Roasted Whole Garlic”. If you’re in the “you can never have garlic” camp and/or you’re traveling alone, like I was, this is a wonderful way to start a meal. I learned that their specialty was the “world-famous” Ambrosia Burger. I am not sure about the “world-famous” part, but it was very good. My dessert was a Triple Berry Pie because… well, it’s pie.

Point Lobos State Park

My last stop on Highway 1 was Point Lobos State Park. This park is usually crowded on the weekends, so I took advantage of being there relatively early and midweek in springtime to stop at one of my favorite state parks. I recently visited Point Lobos, but I didn’t have a lot of time, so I took short hikes at Whaler’s Cove and China Cove. The park even smells great, but you’ll want to stay on the trails, as poison oak is plentiful just off the trail.

Monterey, Pacific Grove, and Carmel

I recently wrote about Carmel and Pacific Grove, so I drove by on this trip and did not stop. However, adding a few extra days would make a great addition to your trip.

Folktale Winery

I visited Folktale Winery, one of the local wineries, during this trip. Located a few miles up the Carmel Valley, Folktale Winery is a new winery, formerly known as Chateau Julian. They are currently replanting their vineyards with  Pinot and Chardonnay as they transition. I enjoyed some of their wines, such as the dry Rosé and the Chardonnay (the first time someone mentioned it tasted of vanilla, and I could really detect it). However, what is truly noticeable about Folktale is the wine-tasting experience.

They have removed the old tasting bar from the winery and instead reconfigured it into a wine garden with tables, chairs, and lawn games like Connect 4, Jenga, and Corn Hole, which also makes it one of the most family-friendly wineries I have visited. Their idea is “sip, sample, and be social”.

Tours are available, generally at noon, 2 pm, and 4 pm, but call ahead. Erin and Kaylin gave me a tour of the facilities, including the area where they host concerts as part of their Live on the Vine series, in conjunction with the local KRML radio station. The bands get to stay in an amazing estate house that made me wish I had spent more time learning the guitar.

Home Away from Home – Jucy RV

My transportation and accommodation on this road trip was a Jucy RV, which, as I mentioned, is a converted minivan. It sleeps 4, with 2 in the van and 2 in the popup penthouse. In the back hatch, it has a stove, refrigerator, and sink. It comes with pots and pans, silverware, and dishes. For an additional $25 a trip, you can rent bedding. You can rent camp chairs for $20 for the whole trip.

Many of their customers are coming in from Europe, Australia, or New Zealand, where Jucy is more well-known. The idea is that you can fly in and pick up your van fully equipped.

See this video for details:

If you are willing to drive something larger and need more space, then check out some advice for renting a motorhome in California.

Conclusion

The Central Coast of California is my home, but I would love it even if it weren’t. If anything, it has gotten more interesting than when I grew up in Salinas. Hundreds of wineries, great hikes, beautiful scenery, and now a National Park. This is a place worth exploring.

Portions of my trip were sponsored (paid for) by Jucy RV and the Central Coast Tourism Board, for which they have my thanks. The opinions expressed are my own.

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